Thursday 8 November 2012

So many days

I'm back home in England now, and that feels awfully strange. The last few days went by quite quickly, and were fairly boring really...apart from having lunch with a member of the the Afghan Royal family, he was the nephew of the last King. The problem with last days is that invariably people have to cancel on you and then there is not enough time to rearrange another meeting, which is what happened with me. Tuesday there seemed to be some kind of security issue and the internet was down for a couple of hours...for everyone, that usually means something is wrong somewhere in the world, if not within the country. I think I was also sad about leaving. When I was there, I kept talking about missing home, and now I'm back I wonder what I was talking about, sure it was nice to have some chocolate and see my sister when she picked me up from the airport...but I miss being with all my new friends, and having no heat and snuggling under 4 thick blankets and hoping to get warm. To making people laugh, to hanging out in restaurants that I have to wear about 3 layers for in order to even get in the door. To finally getting the chance to walk around the neighbourhood the day before I have to leave and meeting some of the shopkeepers. There is an ache in my heart for this country and I wonder how I managed to leave, and how soon I can get back...and yet at the same time there is a fear of how I can cope with the conflicting, contrasting, claustrophobic nature of living there.

Friday 2 November 2012

Dinner and an outing

I can't sleep. For a number of reasons really. I had a 4 hour nap this afternoon after coming back from our trip out of the city, and so just don't feel tired. There is also a lot of noise outside with aircraft and not the civilian kind either. I got up early this morning as four of us were heading out of the city. Before we had even started however, one of the four dropped out due to potential stomach issues - you don't want to mess with that when you don't know where the next toilet will be. The remaining three of us piled into the car and headed out. It probably took us nearly an hour to get to a sign that told us we were leaving the city. Mountains towered before us and we hit the countryside. It is amazing the change in scenery and just how much greener everything looked as we left the city behind, soon we turned off the main road and head up the hills to our destination, we tried to go up the main road but they were rebuilding so we had to take the side roads which involved lots of winding bendy roads full of stones and bumps and several reversing back the way we had come in order to take a different turning. It was quite an experience. We went along to an old derelict house that used to belong to the old king and sits on top of a hill which gave us a great view, then we head to the bazaar where there was a number of shops selling pottery...something this area is famous for, and which they have only started doing again in the last few years. After doing a little shopping we headed back down to the city and lunch in a local restaurant with local people that our driver took us to. It was quite a contrast to dinner last night. Dinner last night was both interesting, comfortable and quite disconcerting. We had to dress up in our gladdest rags and finery and then cover it all up as we took the taxi over. We got there earlier than we needed to so headed downstairs to the bar area. At first it seemed like no one else was around and we got a little worried that there would be hardly anybody at dinner, but soon people started arriving and they were dressed as fancy as we were which brought no end of relief. Finally at 8pm we headed upstairs for dinner. We sat with a number of different people all with very interesting jobs and even stricter security policies in place, but somehow we had all managed to convince our security guys that we would be ok and we had all made it out. It's a strange place this town, dinner last night would not have been at all out of place in Whitehall or D.C and yet today's trip out of the city brought back the reality of what everyday people are living in. It's a strange country but one I am growing to love.

Thursday 1 November 2012

Cinderella

So, I'm going to dinner and a ball tonight. I don't know exactly what that will entail except I know I have to hand over my passport and go through about 4 locked gates before I can get in. However when coming here I didn't particularly envision going out somewhere fancy where the dress style is black tie and medals!! So today after a morning visit I went shopping. Before I talk about the shopping, let me just mention a quick something about my visit this morning. It was to someone that I had seen last time I was here and I was just catching up and seeing if anything new was happening. Turns out something new is happening, something big and deep and solid in the middle of their compound...a bunker! I was quite surprised at this because last time I was there that area was just grass and garden. It seems that they should have had a bunker in the compound for like the last 4 or 5 years, but they only just got the tools, permission, labour (I wasn't quite sure what) recently, and so now the bunker is being built. It actually looks like something out of a movie, I mean seriously. I wish I could have taken a photo, however taking photos here is pretty difficult to do, just because you don't want to get shot or something. I try and take as many as I can, but it all comes down to taking through car windows or while I'm moving in the car. Ok, back to shopping. I hate shopping. I really do. But I have nothing to wear for this evening, and I stupidly checked what the dress code was, so now I have no excuse for not knowing what to wear. Which means shopping. I was advised where to go yesterday, and given instructions on how to get into the shopping centre (which for those of you who have been to India, it's a bit like one of those kinds of shopping centre!). My driver drops me off and tells me he will wait, and so I hurry in, passing by angry police who are harassing the money exchange people. Once inside I look for the easiest, nearest dress shop that might sell my kind of dress. Considering what country I am in, they have a surprising lot of what the Americans call "prom dresses" and what we in England would call "evening dresses". I am not particularly interested in what it looks like, but more about the price, and the size, and how quickly i can purchase it. As I get to the first shop, the power in the whole building goes out. Well that makes it interesting to see. I glance at the price tags and scarper pretty quickly out of there, I'm not looking for expensive. I look up at the next floor, and as they are closer to the ceiling, there is more natural light coming in and its easier to see the dresses. I go into the shop, point at a dress that looks fairly simple, and ask if they have it in my size. He shows me the tag and we both seem to agree that it might fit, I ask if there is somewhere I can try on and he shows me this little cupboard with a lock on where I can try on this potential new dress. Suffice to say, I took off my headscarf and black abiya, but pretty much tried on the dress over the rest of my clothes, I wasn't going to think this was Marks and Spencers changing room!! It was a nice dress, it fit ok, but when I went to ask the price, it was twice what I was prepared to pay for. I said no, hoping he would lower the price, but either because he could see I was a desparate foreign woman, or because other customers had come in, he refused to budge...I walked. Now I was beginning to get desperate. I had told my driver I would only be 30 minutes, and I really wanted to stick to that. I walked into a few more stores, but they didn't have the kind of dress I wanted. Finally I found a store, and the sales guy spoke some English. He had a dress in the window that looked nice and then told me that he had one in black as well with sleeves - I preferred the idea of the black dress, but when he looked for it, he couldn't find it. So again, I went into the cupboard/changing room and tried on the dress over my clothes. It fitted - perfect! Now to the price again. It was a cheaper price then the first guy offered which was a definite bonus, now to haggle it down...however I was very aware that I hadn't taken tea (always a way to establish a relationship here) and was also in a hurry and therefore my haggling skills weren't really up to par. We finally came down to a price that was a little nearer to what I wanted to pay and a little less than he had started with. Great. Cinderella now has a dress. I wish I could take photos of this occasion this evening to show you all, it will be full of foreigners who are working here, it's a whole different life to what poses as normal life here, but unfortunately no cameras allowed. I'll try and write about it tomorrow though.